Şile Cloth Geographical Registration Certificate

Saturday, December 17, 2022

Registration Number: 272
Registration Date: 12.12.2017
Application No: C2014/059
Application Date: 26.08.2014
Name of Geographical Indication: Şile Cloth
Product Name: Woven Fabric
Type of Geographical Indication: Geographical Indication
Applicant: Şile Cloth Preservation and Development Association
Address of the Applicant: Hacı Kasım Mah. Uskudar Cad. Polat Apt. No:7 Şile / ISTANBUL
Geographical Boundary: Şile district of Istanbul province
Usage: Marking
Product Description and Distinguishing Features:

Şile Cloth is a cotton crepe fabric unique to the Şile region. After being woven from sized limp cotton yarn on hand or semi-automatic weaving looms, the fabric is dipped in lime cream, then washed in the waters of the Black Sea, and dried by laying on the sands. Şile Cloth may be undyed (raw), dyed keeping its agility, or woven using colored yarns. The surface of Şile Cloth has a natural pattern, such as curved thin paths. Due to the twist rate of the yarns used, Şile Cloth has a flexible and voluminous texture, and its width narrows by about 15% after weaving. Due to the wrinkled structure of the weaving, air remains between the fabric and the body in the clothes produced from Şile cloth, and thermal insulation since the fabric does not stick to the body is provided. Şile Cloth is generally used in underwear, outerwear, and home textiles.
In the district of Şile, Şile cloth weaving as it is known today has been done for about 150 years.

Production Method:
The main material of Şile Cloth is cotton thread. Although silk weaving samples were encountered during the periods when flax was grown in the region, and silk weaving samples were found during the periods when silkworms were grown, Şile cloth has been produced from 100% cotton yarn for the last century.
Şile Cloth is produced on hand looms or semi-automatic looms using the same methods and techniques. There is no difference between the two methods in the preliminary preparation stages before weaving (yarn sizing, warp preparation) and the creaming, washing and drying stages of the cloths after weaving, and in the structure of the fabrics produced.

Şile Cloth production consists of 3 stages;
• 1st stage: Preparation stages of the yarn for weaving (preliminary preparation – sizing, warping, drawing-in)
• 2nd stage: Weaving stage (hand-loom or semi-automatic weaving loom)
• 3rd stage: Finishing (curdling, washing, drying)
Preparation Stages of Yarn for Weaving (Pre-Preparation):

The yarn used in Şile Cloth is Ne 20/1, 1st Class 100% raw cotton. One of the most important features of Şile Cloth weaving threads is the twist. Twisting gives the woven fabric a flexible and wavy, wrinkled appearance, so Şile Cloth becomes a fabric with high air permeability.

The yarn used in Şile Cloth weaving is between 1.100 - 1.300 turns/m. The “wraps” in which the yarn hanks are together are taken. These closures are opened by hand and separated into handcuffs, in other words, ordeals. With the help of both hands, these ordeals are opened. A basin is filled with water and the hanks are left in water for about 30 minutes until they absorb the water well.
Sizing is a process performed to provide durability and lubricity to cotton yarn. This process, which is a type of starching method, causes the soft cotton yarn to harden while at the same time raising the yarn. Thus, it is ensured that the weaving is more comfortable by preventing the threads from sticking to each other and breaking during weaving. 1 pack comes in approximately 4.500 gr. For sizing, 4 skeins, ie 18 kg yarn hank in total, are used. Approximately 50 liters of water are filled into a cauldron and boiled.

In another bowl, 2 kg of flour is put into approximately 3 liters of water and it is crushed by hand to form a slurry. Then, this slurry is added to the boiling water in the cauldron by a sieve. It is boiled for about 20 minutes until it acquires its consistency, this mixture is called “çiriş”. The slipperiness and homogeneity of the paste sample taken with a spoon from the boiler are checked.

To control the consistency, a spoon is dipped into the dough and removed, and the surface of the spoon is touched with a finger and the surface is expected not to close immediately. After getting its consistency, it is taken from the fire, transferred to another cauldron by sieve, and left to cool. The freckles, which absorb the water in the basin, are squeezed by hand, and after being whipped between two hands, they are thrown into the warm çiriş at a temperature where one hand can be inserted without getting burned. Here, the hanks are mixed and removed after absorbing the freckles at each point and squeezed by hand, then whipped between the two hands and hung on the previously prepared poles.

In the drying process, the hanks are hung on poles in an airy place so that they do not touch each other and are well-ventilated. While the sizing process provides vitality and durability to the cotton, the process of whisking by inserting both hands into the hank adds flexibility to the yarn.

Warp Preparation: The sized hanks are wound on bobbins and arranged in the warp creel. When winding hanks into bobbins, hand-turned spinning wheels made of wood were used in the past, but nowadays they are more commonly used.
A Coilover machine working with an electric motor is used.

In old-style spinning wheels, a spinning wheel made of wood, called "elimination" or "elimination" for spinning yarn, is attached to a revolving table made of wooden battens. The spinning wheels are sometimes mounted on a fixed or mobile stone and are used in spinning, folding, reeling, or spooling operations. After scaling, the hanks that are left to dry by hanging are collected. The end of the cotton thread is separated from the skein and wrapped on a spool, bobbin, or bobbin. By turning the spinning wheel, the threads are wound on thin wooden sticks attached to the spinning wheel called “pencils” made of hemlock or reed. The threads to be used in the warp are wound on wooden reels, the other prepared items are placed inside the shuttle and wrapped on bobbins to be used as weft.

In the bobbin and bobbin winding system, which works with an electric motor, the end of the cotton thread is separated from the dried skein and wound on the reel, bobbin or bobbin. In this method, manual turning is done with the help of an electric motor. The threads to be used for the warp are wrapped in bobbins and arranged in the warp creel. The yarns to be used as weft in the weaving loom are wound on the bobbins to be placed in the shuttle.

The prepared bobbins are arranged in the warp creel and the warp is prepared. According to the desired width, 14 threads per 1 cm are passed to the determined number of wires on the loom. For example, the warp of a 45 cm wide Şile Cloth consists of approximately 600 wire threads. If 100 bobbins are placed in the warp creel while the warp is being prepared, 6 ties are wound side by side to complete 600 threads. The length of the windings is set as the desired length of the warp.

The warp wrapped in the warp machine is then transferred to the warp beam to be attached to the weaving machine.
The warp beam is hung above or behind the loom so that it can move freely.

Since Şile Cloth is a fabric woven with the plain technique, two frames are used. During weaving, one of the frames goes up and one down, creating a gap between the warp threads. The shuttle with the weft thread passes through this gap and as a result the frames are moved up and down one or the other in each movement.
weaving is done.

Draw-in: The warps coming from the cross row are passed through the "powers" that provide the movement of the warp thread on the loom, one by one, by hand. Powers are the wires through which the threads on each frame pass. Half of the warp threads are passed through one frame and the other half through the second frame. The separation of frames into separate threads is possible as a result of crossing them. As the next step, the warp threads are passed through the card in the order they come from diagonally, in accordance with the card drawing-in feature; This process is called “tahar”. Then, they are tied in the front beam, also called “pregnant”, where the woven fabric is wrapped on the loom. In this way, the loom becomes ready for weaving. In Şile Cloth weaving, a comb with 7 sections in 1 cm is used. Threads coming from between the strengths of 2 different frames are passed through each section. In this way, there are 14 threads in 1 cm. If there is already a ready warp, new yarns are added to the ends of the yarns on the weaving loom. Particular attention should be paid to the edges, a few threads are taken in pairs on the edges of the cloth.

This process prevents the cloth from being removed from the edges after weaving. Weaving phase (in hand-loom or semi-automatic weaving loom): Warp threads become ready for weaving after knotting the threads that are newly threaded on the loom and the pre-existing threads on the loom. The fabrics woven on the loom, consisting of comb, pregnant, power, tambourine, footrest, and whip pieces, are turned into balls in 45 cm, 90 cm, or 150 cm widths and 20 meters in length. Woven fabrics are woven with plain weave, but in some examples, geometric colored patterns given from the weft during weaving are also encountered.

Weaving with a handloom: While Şile Cloth is weaving with a handloom (whip-type loom), the weaver separates 2 frames by pressing the pedals with its feet. While each pedal pulls one frame up, the other pedal pushes the frame down, allowing the weft thread to pass through the warp and be woven.

The weft rope is located in the shuttle and operates the device that throws the whip, that is, the shuttle attached to a rope, from left to right or right to left. As the shuttle, which goes back and forth between the opened frames and the crossed warp threads and contains the weft thread, moves, after each movement, the weaver compresses the weft thread in the horizontal plane and ensures the weaving. Threads that break during weaving are followed and tied. Weaving with a semi-automatic loom: The only difference between a semi-automatic loom and a handloom is that the movements of the weaver on the handloom are made with the support of an electric motor. Apart from these, the bobbin changing in the shuttle is done by the weaver, and weaving is continued by following the broken threads and tying the broken threads as in hand weaving. Semi-automatic weaving looms mechanicalize the movements of the weaver, creating fabric with the same properties as hand weaving.

While weaving Şile Cloth, the fabric edge, which is formed by taking a few threads in pairs on the edges, is only seen in Şile Cloths woven on hand looms and semi-automatic weaving looms. In modern weaving machines, cloth with this feature cannot be produced. Finishing process (creaming, washing, drying): After the woven fabric is taken from the loom, the finishing processes are started. This meringue, which has a yellowish color in its natural appearance, is bleached with lime cream. In order to cream 1 ball (20 m) of Şile Cloth, the cloth is first kept in a basin filled with water at room temperature until it absorbs the water thoroughly. To bleach 1 ball of Şile Cloth, 100 grams of lime cream and 100 grams of washing soda are mixed in a bowl. 20 liters of water is poured into another basin and the lime cream mixture in the container is filtered and transferred to the basin. 1 ball of pre-soaked Şile Cloth is pressed into the basin containing the mixture. Şile Cloth, which is pressed upside down for about 5-10 minutes, is bleached. After the desired color is reached, the cloths are removed from the lime-cream mixture and rinsed with water until clear. After rinsing, the washing process that gives Şile Cloth its original feature is done by washing it in seawater on the shores of the Black Sea in the Şile district. The bleached Şile Cloth is whipped and shaken several times in the sea in balls and left to dry in the sun on the sand. The structure of water and sand penetrates the fabric of the cloth. Şile Cloth, which is dried after being washed with sea water, gains a twisted and agile appearance.

Since Şile Cloth is washed in the sea and dried in the sand, it is suitable for these processes when the weather conditions are mild. Starting from April until November, when the weather is dry and hot, washing and drying are done by laying on the sand. Washed and dried cloths are stored and folded into 20 m balls. Şile Cloth is mostly used with its own color (ecru color) of the raw cotton thread, but it can also be produced in a different color from the raw color if desired. Coloring of Şile Cloth can be done either by dyeing in hank or by dyeing the fabric. In the hank dyeing method, pre-colored weaving threads are used. In the dyeing method of the fabric, the coloring is done after the weaving process.

Production, Processing, and Other Operations Required Within the Geographical Boundary: The weaving preparation stages such as sizing, warp preparation, and weaving are processes that require mastery and this mastery has been established in Şile for many years; Therefore, these transactions should be carried out in Şile. Since the woven Şile cloths are washed on the Şile beaches of the Black Sea and dried by laying on the sands on the Şile beach, these processes must also be carried out in Şile.
Check:
Controls on whether Şile Cloth is produced in accordance with the specifications described in the production method T.C. It is made by a commission of at least 4 people in total, formed by the Şile Municipality Culture and Social Affairs Directorate, Şile Tourism Culture and Promotion Association, Şile Cloth Protection, Survival, and Development Association, with the participation of at least one person from each institution. Inspections are carried out regularly twice a year both in the production stages (sizing, warp preparation, weaving, creaming, washing, and drying) and in the marketing stages, as well as whenever complaints and needs arise. audit commission; Authorizing and obtaining expert legal or private persons from public or private institutions for the performance of the audit, making final decisions on company applications, taking administrative decisions, taking necessary measures for the functioning, initiating legal and/or legal processes in terms of protecting rights, following up will act as authorized for the transactions.